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It all starts here. The singular molecules that are at the heart of the most desirable, sensuous scents in the art of perfume are celebrated in their most minimal, individual form in this unisex series by seasoned nose Geza Schöen. The Berlin-based perfumer grew tired of the stench coming from the masstique and celebrity-crazed perfume market. So, in London in 2006, Geza introduced a radical concept. “I thought, this one will appeal only to the artists, the freaks, the outsiders,” he reflects. Instead, the critically acclaimed series has earned a dedicated cult following as the “anti-fragrance fragrance brand.”
Each installment—01, 02 and 03—is split between 2 impressions.
The "Molecule" in the duo is essentially a perfume of a singular, pure aroma molecule. This is fragrance at its most minimalist. It's also why a paper test could never reveal its true nature. It needs to be spritzed on skin and allowed time to activate with the skin's chemistry.
The Escentric counter is a formula spotlighting a standout aroma-molecule, amplified by select ingredients. Even the branding is considered, its binary code language reflecting the decodable or esoteric nature of the juice within each bottle.
The inaugural duo showcased Iso E Super. This sheer, velvety sandalwood-like attractant is a feature of the majority of scents Geza favored. “You can never get enough of it. One sniff and you want the whole bottle. It’s like a drug.” So Geza created a scent with an unprecedented 65% of the molecule. From there, he emphasized peer molecules long cherished in the world of perfumery: 02, Ambroxin; 03, Vetiveryl Acetate.
Spritz either Molecule or Escentric in each group; or layer for an even more complex scent.
“My father was an art teacher, so I was always exposed to lots of weird stuff from a very early age on,” says Geza Schoen, the creator of Escentric Molecules. “It was always OK to do things yourself, and to do things differently.” Geza started collecting odd perfume samples as a kid and smelling them blind. More formally, he then trained for 5 years at the German company Haarman and Reimer in a class of just 4 students. That lifelong fascination would eventually lead him to rewrite the book on fragrance.
His breakthrough was a pair of fragrances based on heretofore unseen concentrations of an aroma-molecule named Iso E Super—in Escentric 01, blended with other supporting players, and Molecule 01, isolated on its own. Two other scent pairings have since followed and he’s gained worldwide recognition for fragrances that mold to the wearer rather than the other way around. At home in Berlin (after living in London, New York and Paris), he continues his quest in his apartment, kitted out with a small laboratory: “I want to give someone an aura, rather than a perfume to wear.”